In a sea of swarming new, creative, and not so creative buzz word restaurants, Paris Bistro on Park Av, Winter Park holds steadfast with Classical Cuisine. What is the current buzz word for new restaurants? Gastro Pub or is it Farm to Table? Who really holds the restaurant to hot coals? As they say, the proof is in the pudding or how long they stay afloat.
As many culinary professionals will tout, one cannot truly be creative or forward thinking without mastering the basics. Paris Bistro has mastered the basics. Every new culinary school graduate or wannabe overnight super chef should have a meal here to know what is the yardstick before they embark in breaking the mold. There are many truly talented and masterful chefs who clearly understands this humbleness and practices this mantra.
On a raining dreary night, as time would have it, I ventured out to wet my beak. Having my dog along always limits my options. Luckily, there are huge umbrellas along Park Ave infront of Paris Bistro. With the rain pouring and lights dim, Park Ave looked like a movie scene. Or maybe it was the wine. I am not sure that many interiors can replicate mother nature at her finest. So we pulled up a chair for a front row seat.
Service started with cordial greeting streetside by the usher, who does everything possible to provide comfortable seating. The server arrived in a very non rushing manner, with subtleness that suggested ease. There was no pressure, no rush, no anticipation. Just an ever presence. It was almost like a shadow drifting in and out of the rain.
California Moscato – Delicate sweetness with hints of pear that coats the mouth with softness and prepares the palate for richness.
Escargot de Bourgogne – Delicate little morsels bathed in richness. Bold and bursting with full flavors.
Chateau Mercade, Bordeaux, France – Delicate balance of acidity and fruit, accentuating wonderful old world terrior to bring earthiness with every sip. Long lingering sophisticated finish.
Veal Normande – Veal Slowly Cooked in a White Wine Creamy Mushroom Sauce. Tender slivers of veal smothered in silky earthiness that dances on the palate with tartness.
Lapin Aux Pruneaux – Rabbit Slowly Cooked in Red Wine Sauce w/ Onions, Carrots, Prunes & Raisins. A knife was provided just because it was supposed to be provided. Totally unnecessary. The rabbit meat was easily scooped with a fork. The slow sticky coated consistency of this red wine sauce is text book classic. Every droplet of molecule perfectly fused together. Complexity with layers of flavoring and textures reminds why this is such a classic dish.
Crème Brulee – Crisp crust that cracks to reveal creamy sweetness. Masterful balance of sugars.
Polished flavors, textures and service presented in casual street side atmosphere. There can be said that this is where is all starts. These are the building blocks of every great cuisine. The classics. Paris Bistro has stuck with and mastered the classics. They stand heads and shoulders with distinction.